In Conversation with Selma Duarte: Balancing Craft and Commerce

Summary: Selma Duarte, the creative director behind the eponymous label Duarte, shares her approach to scaling production without diluting artisanal techniques. In this exclusive interview, she discusses mentorship, sustainable sourcing, and the myths of 'overnight success'.

We sat down in Duarte's light-filled studio to discuss the intersection of craft, commerce, and cultural stewardship. The conversation spans the brand's early days, strategic compromises, and the responsibility of designers to their makers.

Origins and Ethos

Selma began with a small collective of weavers and tailors in Porto Alegre. Her work centered on reviving near-forgotten stitching techniques and local dye processes. 'We had one sewing machine and a lot of stubborn optimism,' she says with a laugh.

'Scale doesn't have to mean distance from your values. It can mean bringing more people into the craft.'

On Growth: What Changes and What Stays the Same

As the label grew, Selma faced pressure to increase speed. Her solution was a hybrid model: continue small-batch artisanal lines alongside a core collection produced in certified facilities. 'We call it parallel production,' she explains. 'The artisanal line tells our story; the core line pays the salaries that let the artisans keep experimenting.'

Mentorship and the Next Generation

Selma places a heavy emphasis on mentorship. She runs apprenticeship programs that pair young designers with master craftspeople. The program has been a talent pipeline and an incubator for cross-generational design vocabulary.

Advice for Consumers

'Ask where things are made and who makes them,' Selma advises. 'Don't just ask for the country of origin. Ask what skills were required, and whether the maker is fairly compensated.' For Selma, consumer curiosity is part of the sustainability solution.

Looking Ahead

Selma is working on a low-footprint dyeing process that uses fewer salts and reclaims water. 'Innovation isn't just tech,' she says. 'It's also about revisiting old processes with new constraints.'

Final Notes

Selma Duarte's story is a reminder that meaningful growth requires intentional structures. Whether you're a designer, buyer, or curious consumer, her approach underscores the value of asking questions and investing time — in people and in process.